Niseko, Japan Had Us At Hello
- Christina & Tom McCormick
- Mar 18
- 17 min read
Everything you need to know about traveling to and skiing in Niseko.
We recently had the chance to explore Niseko United, a ski resort that boasts many groomed runs along with vast terrains of untouched powder—sometimes as deep as two feet or more—which make it perfect for skiers of every level. Add in exceptional dining options and vibrant après-ski nightlife, and you have the perfect recipe for an unforgettable ski getaway.
If you’re after some of the best powder skiing in the world, Niseko is where you need to be.
Niseko is located on Japan’s northern island of Hokkaido and is part of a broader resort area commonly referred to as the “Niseko Tourism Zone.” This zone encompasses three towns—Kutchan, Niseko Town, and Rankoshi Town—situated at the foot of the iconic mountain Niseko Annupuri.
The region’s dramatic setting, nestled between rolling hills, vast ski areas, and volcanic peaks like Mount Yōtei, plays a huge role in its reputation for world-class powder snow and outdoor adventure.
Niseko United is on a single mountain with four areas to ski down to the base. From southern side to northern side the four areas are: Niseko Hanazona (Park Hyatt location); Niseko Hirafu (town center and Tokyu Grand hotel location); Niseko Village (Hilton location); and Niseko Annupuri (Niseko Grand Hotel location).
Lift tickets for Niseko United are very reasonably priced, compared to US prices. A one-day adult lift ticket for Niseko United is ¥10,500 (about US $70), and a five-day adult lift ticket is ¥50,500 (about US $265). Children and seniors over 65 are less. Buy your Niseko United Lift Passes here.
The Niseko Hirafu area, at a center base of Niseko mountain, is the center of most activity; this is where most condos to rent, hotels, shops, and restaurants are located, and where the Hirafu Welcome Center, where most busses from airport stop, is located. This is also where we found the most fun ‘local’ bar called Freddies (do not go there before 20:00 (8PM)). The Hilton provides a comfortable bus to and from Niseko Hirafu about every 20 minutes.
Getting to Niseko Ski Area:
After spending a week in Tokyo, we flew from Haneda Airport to Sapporo New Chitose Airport. The flight was about 1.5 hours. If you have a choice, fly from Haneda, it is closer to downtown Tokyo. The other Tokyo airport is Narita, which is about an hour outside of Tokyo. Both Tokyo airports have trains that will take you into Tokyo and connect you with the extensive Tokyo subway system.
We kicked off our Niseko adventure fresh off two unforgettable days at the Sapporo Snow Festival. Our journey on the bus took about 2.5 hours with a quick stop to grab a coffee and use the facilities. The ride was comfortable and scenic, and as a bonus, our shuttle dropped us off right at the front entrance of our hotel, The Hilton Niseko Village—nestled at the base of one of the four Niseko United resort areas.
To go from Sapporo Airport to Niseko, you can take a taxi van one-way for ¥50,000 Yen (about US$330), or a bus for about ¥8,500 Yen (about US$56). The bus will stop first at the Hirafu Welcome Center in Niseko Hirafu town, then to the Hilton. Several shuttle bus services run from New Chitose Airport and various hotels in Sapporo straight to Niseko.
The Four Resorts:
Niseko United is comprised of four resorts on the one mountain, Niseko Annupuri. There are a variety of ski runs dedicated learning areas for beginners, terrain parks, and exciting tree runs.
As there are four separate ski areas leading to four separate "towns" you must be careful of where you end the day, or you may have to shuttle back to your hotel with your skis.
The areas are, from southern side to northern side:
Niseko Hanazona (Park Hyatt location). A variety of ski trails dedicated learning areas for beginners, terrain parks, exciting tree runs, and a new lift and gondola:
Niseko Hirafu (town center). The largest area of the 4 resorts, Grand Hirafu has a large beginner area and great powder snow between groomed trails, and a wide range of facilities at the base of the mountain, including hotels, condos shops and restaurants. This is the area where you will find watering holes like Freddie’s Bar, Bar Gyu, The Baddies, Niseko Tap Room, the Jose Cuervo Ice Bar (made from ice blocks), and all the restaurants listed below under “Where to Eat.”
Niseko Village (Hilton location). Very good off-groomed run powder skiing with The Green Leaf Niseko Village and Hilton Niseko Village at its base. Runs to Niseko Village include some of the best and longest skiing and snowboarding trails.
Niseko Annupuri (Niseko Grand Hotel location). Niseko Annupuri has long ski trails that lead to a base area featuring natural onsens.
You can access any of the four base areas of Niseko United by using the Niseko United Shuttle Bus. The shuttle service is free to Niseko United Ski Pass/Ticket holders. Fairs for non-ticket holders are ¥500 for adults and ¥300 for children per ride.
In each area, there is one large hotel that dominates, so the areas include those hotel names. However, there are many nice hotels and condos available around the mountain.
Helpful Links:
Where to Stay:
Niseko Hilton
The Hilton Niseko Village impressed us from the start. Its prime location makes it the perfect ski-in/ski-out destination. With a ski and boot valet service just 50 feet from the gondola, hopping on the slopes was effortless.
After an exciting day of skiing, the hotel made it easy to unwind; you can either head over to the lobby bar for a lively après-ski session—where they offer a one-hour all-you-can-drink deal on wine and beer for just ¥2400 (a real bargain when a single glass of wine will set you back ¥2000), hang out in the Ezo pub, or relax in the onsen. The onsen provides a tranquil retreat that blends the natural beauty of Hokkaido with traditional Japanese relaxation, offering both indoor baths with panoramic views and outdoor baths by a peaceful pond.
Our room at the Hilton was a pleasant surprise, too. Unlike many Japanese hotels where space is at a premium, our three-person room offered sweeping views of Mount Yōtei along with a generous closet, ample drawers and space to keep our luggage neatly tucked away. And as a Hilton Gold Member, we were delighted to find a welcoming fruit plate, a box of chocolates, and a split of champagne waiting for us upon arrival.
From the moment we arrived at the Niseko Hilton, we felt welcome. The front door luggage people were quick and helpful; the front desk was not crowded; and the concierge provided helpful advice.
When registering we were given many free drink tickets and educated about hotel amenities. The front door people immediately took care of our luggage, and the concierge was knowledgeable and polite.
The Hilton main lobby is considerable and wraps around a large fireplace with a bar on one side. The hotel is almost a complete oval, so around the lobby there is a large round area with shops, onsens, ski valet, restrooms, and exit to gondola. The Hilton has many nice restaurants, which are helpful after a good day of skiing!
The Hilton building is little dated (looks like 1980s but refurnished in 2008). Regardless, the service was excellent, rooms are decent size, restaurant food and service were excellent, and the lounges and pub were comfortable. The price was very reasonable compared to other hotels. We chose the Niseko Hilton after Trip Advisor rated it very high. We Recommend.
Hilton Amenities
A gondola that goes from the hotel to almost the top of the ski mountain;
Free ski valet;
Comfortable lobby with a bar;
Perfect and very large breakfast;
The all-you-can-eat sushi lunch restaurant;
Women’s and Men’s separate onsens; and
The Ezo Pub for après-ski drinks and karaoke;
Shuttle service to Hirafu .
Hilton Restaurants
We arrived just before lunch so started our visit at the all-you-can-eat sushi restaurant on the second floor next to the pub. The sushi was exceptional and the sushi chef was delightfully funny!
The all-you-can-eat breakfast served includes everything from made to order western omelets to Japanese food to crepes to lattes. This was our daughters favorite part of the Hilton. The hardest part of every morning was deciding whether we wanted a savory Japanese style breakfast or a sweeter, western style.
The Ezo Pub has traditional pub type food with windows that look up ski run and private rooms for karaoke or cozy encounters. The pub is a good place to watch for family and friends to come down the mountain.
The Melt Bar and Grill has a nice international buffet; and the other four restaurants have a wide variety of Japanese food.
Ski Valet.
Hilton’s free ski valet is perfectly located in Hilton and right at base of ski run; it is very convenient, but not warm enough to properly heat boots.
Advice: leave your skis and poles with valet, take your ski and snowboard boots to your room. We like our ski boots warm; after the first night, we took our boots to our room so in the morning we put on warm ski boots.
Onsen.
Simply put – try it, you will like it! Every afternoon after skiing, we visited the separate onsens for men and women. An onsen is a bathing and soaking place where you shit on a stool in a shower stall to bath before entering hot mineral-water pools. The two sizable hot mineral-water pools, one inside and one outside, are private to your sex group and wonderfully relaxing (the room showers are not large, so the onsens are better). The outside mineral-water pool is especially nice; it snowed on us while in the pool, which added to the beauty of it! To understand how to use an onsen, see here.
FYI, phones, cameras, bathing suits, and sometimes many tattoos are not allowed in many onsens. One's first onsen experience can be slightly uncomfortable if you are not used to being nude in a public setting. That being said, we quickly realized onsens are the norm in Japan so everyone is relaxed and comfortable. For other natural onsens that do allow bathing suits see Festivals and Things To Do section below.
Exploring Area Around the Hilton.
Next to the Hilton is the Niseko-Yo shopping area, which includes the Omotesando Koffee shop, Baby Crosta pizza (owned by a guy from Texas), Village Sports, a few clothing stores, many Japanese restaurants, and a convenience store with skincare, medicine, and snacks. The restaurants were great for lunch and short walk from the Hilton. All food we found was delicious and at fairly reasonable prices.
A short walk on the other side of Niseko-Yo is the Green Leaf Niseko Resort, which is also ski in and ski out.
Other Hotels and Condos in Niseko Ski Area
There are many hotels and condos to rent in the Niseko ski resort area. From luxury hotels, to cheap hostels, to condos which will fit you and all your friends, theres a place to stay for everyone.
Condos
Best for groups of people. See these links:
Major Hotels Links:
Links to other hotels that may require driving:
Bring Your Skis!
Advice:
if you are a decently good skier and prefer your skis, take your skies. We rented skis (brought our ski boots, helmets, etc.). Our concierge recommended Village Sports in the Niseko-Yo shopping area next to the Hilton saying it was the best place. Village Sports had typical rental type skis, not for an expert skier. Tom is expert level skier, and so wanted a longer flexible ski with a wider base to glide through the famous Niseko power; we only found short stiff skis. If you want to rent, we heard Rhythm Hirafu has some of the best gear.
Can You Ship Your Skis?
You can take your skis with you as checked baggage on plane, or pay a service to ship your ski bag from the US to Niseko, or from your hotel in Tokyo, Japan to Niseko.
Suggested Warm Clothes to Bring For A Niseko Winter
First, Niseko is not like Aspen where what you wear is rated by others; Niseko is more relaxed; people go there to ski powder, so you can wear jeans and a decent top anywhere. Any recommendations are not sponsored, we just have used and love them.
Pants
For walking around, we found fleece lined jeans work well. We have fleece lined jeans from Eddie Bauer, and they have been a game-changer when traveling to very cold climates.
Parka
For a warm coat, we have Canada Goose down coats and Overland sheep. The Canada Goose coats are more utilitarian and the Overland coats are more stylish. Our Canada Goose coats are the Expedition and Trillium Parkas; and our Overland coats are the Sheepskin Bomber. If you are looking for a more affordable parka, we highly recommend Orolay Parkas for their high quality and very reasonable price point.
Walking Boots
Warm waterproof boots are a must. We have Overland boots and Helly Hansen boots. Tom prefers the heavier fur lined Overland boots; Christina prefers the lighter Helly Hansen boots. Both have good treads to limit slipping, and are high enough to not let snow or water trickle in.
Ski Gloves
For those that experience chilled hands when skiing, we suggest battery powered heated gloves by Savior. Christina loves her Savior gloves; just don't forget to recharge the batteries! Tom uses Hestra gloves, both fingered and mitten; if cold then adds the Heat Pro small heat sacks in the mittens.
Ski Boots.
Christina prefers Surefoot custom fit heated ski boots. They come with lithium batteries and an App to control the heat from your phone. Tom prefers his old Lange ski boots. If his toes get a little chilly, then he puts a stick-on Heat Source toe pad that generates heat for about eight hours. Heat pads can be purchased at nearly any convenience store in Japan.
Hats
Christina prefers the reasonably priced cashmere beanies from Quince; Tom prefers a hat with a brim since he must wear glasses and the brim keeps rain and snow off his glasses and face.
Comfortable Clothes
Cozy Earth produces a bamboo clothing line that is both soft and comfortable, offers excellent breathability comparable to linen, and tends to be more durable than traditional cotton. Plus, its natural resistance to wrinkling makes it a fantastic choice for travel! Tom scored some Cozy Earth pajamas for Christmas; he liked them so much he started buying their other products.
Where to Eat and Drink:
Niseko offers an abundance of dining options. During our six-day stay, every meal impressed us, with many being truly exceptional. We highly recommend downloading the TableCheck App on your phone, as it's widely used throughout Japan for restaurant reservations.
Recommended Restaurants
We enjoyed an exceptional hot pot experience at Akura, which featured an array of fresh vegetables, noodles, and succulent wagyu beef. The meal for three was reasonably priced, and the service was both friendly and attentive. We highly recommend the wagyu hot pot paired with the grilled potato and cheese for the perfect warming meal. Highly Recommend
One of our favorite restaurants. We had some of the best tasting fondue we have ever experienced, and we have had a lot of fondue! We also enjoyed a pretty good bottle of French Sauvignon Blanc, all at a reasonable price. The table next to use got the Raclette Wheel, which looked so good we decided to go back a second time for it! Highly Recommend
We enjoyed good French cuisine at a decent price. Our meal began with a small serving of foie gras that was exceptionally flavorful despite its modest portion size. For our main courses, we ordered the sautéed mushrooms and stuffed cabbage, each delightfully prepared and priced at approximately 3,500 Yen (around US$22), and complemented our meal with a bottle of French Sauvignon Blanc. The ambiance was comfortable, the food was tasty, but The Barn’s menu could definitely benefit from a broader selection. Recommend
Bar Gyu has garnered attention on social media as one of the more lively and intriguing bars to visit in Niseko. To find it, look for the refrigerator door outside a nondescript building (or simply use Google Maps). Once inside, seating is available on either the main floor or upstairs. Although the drink menu is extensive and creative, we found the cocktails to be a bit steep at around $15 each. Additionally, while the atmosphere felt somewhat subdued during our visit, it may become more energetic as the night progresses. Recommend
How Freddie's has remained off the Instagram grid is a complete mystery to us. It's undeniably the ultimate après-après spot in the Niseko Hirafu area. This local gem serves drinks and beer in a lively, high-spirited atmosphere, thanks to a team of hilariously entertaining young bartenders. Freddie describes its bar as:
“An American style clubhouse, for après ski, smokehouse dining, cocktails, craft beers and more. Come 10pm it transforms into a wild saloon from the west with table top dancing taking centre stage as they host you into the night.”
"Wild Saloon" is an understatement! Freddie’s quirky shot menu, boldly displayed on the wall, was too amusing to resist—we ended up trying every shot! A word of caution: the shot named "Freddie’s F…k Me Up" is not for the faint-hearted. If you're adventurous and have a good sense of humor, give it a try, but be sure to ask for detailed instructions on how it works, as it's more than just a drink.
Highly Recommend for the Adventurous!
Food Trucks in Hirafu:
Hirafu Intersection Food Truck Hub
Hirafu’s main food truck area is located on the main street next to the Hirafu intersection bus stop; it hosts about 12 food trucks. If you’re hitting the bars of Hirafu, go to the Food Truck Hub before heading to bed! Some options:
Shiretoko Zangi. Nothing like world heritage sourced chicken, twice fried in a giant wok of boiling oil; this is some of the best fried chicken we have tasted!
Charcoal BBQ & Ramen. This truck specializes in locally sourced fish such as komai, shishamo and salmon, deliciously cooked on charcoal grills.
Donburi Komachi. This truck serves delicious dishes like Yakitori rice bowls – the best is the grilled pork rib rice bowl, fried unagi (eel), gyudon, and mochi burgers.
Omnibus Burger. From their yellow school bus, try the double beef burger made of 100% Hokkaido beef. For the non-red meat eaters, try the grilled chicken and mushroom burger options.
Taj Mahal. The Taj Mahal is an absolute must – a Niseko staple – try the butter chicken and naan set. The Taj Mahal always has a line, but worth the wait. If it's too cold out, go next door to their restaurant for a sit-down or takeaway meal.
Gyoza. Gyoza is one of the most common foods in Japan; but these dumplings come in a variety of different shapes, sizes, and flavors. The best in the Niseko area is the Gyoza truck slightly behind the quesadilla truck; we liked the garlic gyoza. Very good gyoza.
Elvis Kebabs. Stop by Elvis Kebabs, located on the Hirafu main street in the third food truck hub of the village – The Hirafu Food Market. Elvis serves perfectly cooked Halal meat with all the options you find at home. Find it by the loud music blasting into the street!
Eat Street Food Truck Hub
Eat Street Food Truck Hub is on the Hirafu main street opposite the Aya hotel. Eat Street is a family friendly place - a great destination for a family night out - with bonfires, a large projector screening movies, many fairy lights, and considerably large ice sculptures crafted in front of your eyes.
Growing Tourists. Growing Tourists also serves local venison, Hokkaido bred wagyu, and grilled eel (unagi). Try the Unagi, but if not your thing, then get a burger.
Eva. Eva takes izakaya (skewered barbecue meat) to another level, offering up one-pound skewers of Hokkaido pork stewed in their secret sauce. Try the pork skewer or pork miso soup.
Azumasi. Hokkaido, being close to the ocean, has great fresh oysters. Azumasi serves a selection of fresh oysters harvested from Akkeshi for only 600 Yen (US$4).
Miyabi. Miyabi serves a wide variety of dishes, including family size fish and chips and potato buckets. The monster box includes a little bit of everything and is a great option for those looking to feed the family.
Other Activities, Festivals, and Things To Do:
Onsens
There are natural hot springs located around the Annupuri area of Niseko. Relaxing in an onsen is the best way to soothe aching joints and muscles after a long day on the mountain. Visitors can enjoy “Toji”, the practice of relaxing in the geothermal heated, mineral-rich water as a form of therapy. Onsen are an integral part of Japanese culture and the practice of relaxing in hot springs is a custom that dates to ancient times.
Goshiki Onsen. This onsen uses natural water fresh from Mt. Iwanopuri – where this onsen is located. This onsen is one of the most popular in the Niseko area, especially in summer.
Hirafutei Onsen. Niseko Prince Hotel Hirafutei is one of Hirafu’s most popular hotels and hosts this stunning onsen. The location is very central and is easily accessible. It is also perfectly situated with Mt. Yotei views from the women’s bath and Mt. Annupuri views from the men’s bath.
Ikoino Yuyado Iroha. Located at the base of Niseko Annupuri, this beautiful onsen uses natural, free-flowing water which is believed to be good for the skin.
Kanronomori. Kanronomori has a large public onsen and offers a private onsen for hire for 50 minutes for a more exclusive experience. Private onsen bookings are necessary so please call ahead.
Kira No Yu. Kira No Yu is a local favorite, located right next to the Niseko JR railway station. This onsen features a modern design, large indoor baths, and outdoor baths. Community events are often held here.
Yukichichibu. This historic onsen is located in a scenic valley surrounded by stunning nature, and is right next to a large geyser. It has eight onsen baths including a mud bath in the women’s section. This is one of the most popular onsens in the area.
Useful Links:
Event sites for Niseko:
Other Things to Consider:
Foreign Currency
Don't waste your time to get foreign currency for the country you are going to, unless that country does not have any banks or ATM machines! You get a better exchange rate by using a bank related ATM machine wherever you land. Every international airport we have seen has an ATM, and if not, there are banks close by that will accept your ATM card at the then best exchange rate, minus a small fee.
Credit & Debit Cards
Don't forget to call your bank and let them know where you are traveling. To avoid currency conversion fees abroad, always choose 'local currency' when withdrawing money. Japan is a little tricky where not every ATM will accept foreign cards. 711's 7 Bank always accepts them, but with around a ¥400 fee. You'll also have luck at bigger banks ATMs such as UFJ or SMBC. Although cash is still king in Japan, in cities and tourist hotspots like Tokyo and Niseko, contactless payment is becoming more common.
Medical Insurance
You should review online your medical insurance coverage for international travel, or call your medical insurance company. It's always good to know if you have any coverage. If you do not have any medical coverage outside of the US, may not be a problem if you have a good credit card. Most countries have some form of basic public medical coverage available to everyone. You may need to pay a small amount, but well worth it. Japan is like nearly everywhere in the world and healthcare is shockingly cheaper than the US. For example, Christina hurt her back learning how to do acrobatics on the flying trapeze while in Turks & Caicos a few years ago. She went to the local hospital and got an MRI for US$200; same procedure in the US was US$5,000.
Renting A Car – International Driver’s License
Japan is like many countries and requires all drivers to have an International Driver’s License. Easy to get, there is no test to take, just a passport type photo and pay a fee. We got ours from AAA Insurance office, which we are members. The good thing about AAA is you get the license while you wait. If you are not a AAA member, you can get an International Driver’s License online through many websites; this process takes time to receive the license in the mail. Licenses are good for one year.
Car Insurance For Renting A Car
Many car rental companies will try to charge you ‘extra’ car insurance when you rent a car, even with a major US company like Hertz, or they will refuse to rent the car to you. Check with your credit cards to see if they provide car insurance coverage. Our Chase Sapphire Reserve card provides liability car insurance when you rent a car outside the US. You can get a letter from your credit card company to show the foreign car rental company that you have insurance coverage. This does not always work since some out of US car rental companies make a lot of extra money selling this ‘extra’ insurance, so you may need to buy their insurance in order to rent the car. This happens often in Mexico.
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